Monday, February 20, 2006

Torres Del Paine: 13 - 18 Feb

Just come back from the EPIC Torres Del Paine Circuit Grande hike which took us 7 days (6 nights). It was really brilliant, and so much better than just doing the shorter 4-day W-route that most people do. It was everything I´d been looking forward to for 5 years since I first went to a S.A. climber´s talk and heard about it.

The full circuit is usually takes about 8-10 days and has at least 12 different possible campsites.

Day 1:
Walking from Laguna Amarga through the Patagonian Steppe (very dry area where it rains all the time---something to do with the dry wind that dumps its snow on the Andean ice-shelf and the cold winters) to camp in an umarked, but brilliant, campsite looking over Lago ???. The lake, and the little stream nearby, are all an opaque turquoise / aqua-marine colour. AND THE RIVERS---the whole of S.A. doesn't have as much water as the Grade 2+, 200m wide river we walked beside for 2 whole days. A dry-suited kayaker's paradise!

Day 2:
Halfway camp to Los Peros.
Lotsa 'Outer Patagonian Rainforests' which were amazing, but wet later in the day. First camp next to a fridge (glacier) that rumbled all night.

Day 3:
Los Peros - Las Guardeira.

Made the excellent decision to pack up in the pouring rain and walk out of the valley of insane weather. ThenF#$%ing vertical peat bog, the Pass, and the most amazing view of the entire circuit---the 5km wide Grey Glacier stretching 20+km up into the misty Andean Peaks.

Day 4:
Las Guardeira - Campemanto Italiano
The insane tailwind (climatic!), and the beautiful lagos.

Day 5:
Quite a long day (13 map hours) thanks to the psycho german, Axel, who did the whole 'W' and much more in three days (most people take 5 or 6 for what he did).
Saw all the Cuernos (Horns) peaks, then walked to Las Torres campsite for a hot shower, and no wind. Met the other South Africans.


Day 6:
Very easy day walking through the muggles (one day hikers and people with stuff attached to every clip on their backpack). Played Israeli card games for 5 hours in a shack in the rain---was great.

Day 7:
Early moring sunrise, tea, porridge, tea again, under a clear 'fucshia' Torres Centrale, Norte, and the other one.



More coming...

2 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Seems like there is elitism everywhere; eh?

'muggles' - the hiker/adventure-racer equivalent of 'funrider'?

Speaking of funrider; I got a funrider tattoo the other day which would have made you proud :). Ramped over a ditch with mtb, became unseated and then pedal teeth slammed into me calve when I landed. Caused a mighty deep gash.

Anyhow, seems like you are having a stunning experience.
So envious :(.

11:20 am  
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